Camel Bite Me: The Risks of Visiting Wadi Rum

One account from travellers visiting Jordan’s famous desert tells of a camel ride that left them with mixed feelings. They set off on an exciting adventure, only to find themselves alone without a guide, accompanied by an eight-year-old boy who spoke none of their language. Throughout the journey, they worried that the camels in the caravan would bite their legs, as the animals were walking so closely together. Yet after reaching their destination and returning in a comfortable jeep, the delighted travellers quickly forgot their fears and now recall the experience with very different emotions.

Of course, there is a chance that a camel might bite you in the desert, but that is certainly not why you should visit Wadi Rum.

Stunning in its natural beauty, Wadi Rum embodies the romance of the desert. With its “lunar landscape” of ancient valleys and sandstone mountains rising above the sand, Wadi Rum is also home to several Bedouin tribes living in scattered camps across the area. Climbers are especially drawn to Wadi Rum for its clean granite and sandstone cliffs, while visitors enjoy its vast open spaces. Wadi Rum is perhaps best known for its connection with the enigmatic British officer T. E. Lawrence, who was here during the Great Arab Revolt of 1917. Much of David Lean’s film Lawrence of Arabia was filmed in Wadi Rum.

The main route to Wadi Rum and the small village of Rum lies east of the Desert Highway, around five kilometres south of Quweira and 25 kilometres north of Aqaba. From there, the road runs through the desert for approximately 35 kilometres and ends in Rum. It is best to travel to Rum by car, as public transport to the village is unreliable. The village consists mainly of several hundred Bedouin residents living in goat-hair tents and concrete houses, along with a school, several shops and the headquarters of the famous Desert Patrol.

There are several ways to explore Wadi Rum. At the government rest house, located right in the village, you can hire a four-wheel-drive jeep with a Bedouin driver for short or longer day tours of the surrounding area. Camels are also available for short excursions or for a desert journey to Aqaba. We have already mentioned some of the possible challenges of such a trip. The only accommodation in Rum is at the government rest house, where tents are available.

For those with a little more time for adventure, the best way to experience Wadi Rum is on longer hikes. The landscape’s tranquil silence and grandeur are truly best appreciated on foot. All you need for a trek in Wadi Rum is plenty of water—at least two to three litres per day—some food, good footwear and a sleeping bag. Those with a four-wheel-drive vehicle, a map and plenty of fuel can see more of the varied landscape while saving their energy for spectacular hikes such as Burdah Rock Bridge, one of Wadi Rum’s most popular attractions.

True adventurers can test their skills and endurance by climbing Jabal Ram, one of Jordan’s highest mountains. The ascent is an exhausting and treacherous challenge, suitable only for those with a strong heart and an unyielding will. However, it is recommended only with a guide, arranged in advance at the Visitor Centre. All excursions can be booked there; accepting offers elsewhere may put you at risk of an unexpected situation. In a real desert, it is worth thinking carefully about your safety and seeking the support of experienced people. And do not lose your Wadi Rum entry ticket—being in the area without it is against the rules.

If you decide to set off by car, you should be especially careful as well.

Off-road drivers should take care not to damage the desert vegetation. Do not risk venturing too far from Rum, and remember to take plenty of water. Then you will be able to fully enjoy the otherworldly landscapes created here by nature.

It is no surprise that this place attracts makers of science-fiction films. Wadi Rum has a filmography that many locations could envy. This desert was chosen for filming Transformers, Aladdin, episodes of Star Wars and, of course, films about Mars. Red Planet, The Last Days on Mars and The Martian all used the local landscapes as their scenery—and the result was truly convincing. So, if you have not yet decided to meet the desert face to face, watch these films.

This World Heritage Site is a protected area of national importance. Beyond the more adventurous ways of exploring it, you can immerse yourself in the passage of time and view little-studied rock art. It can be found in different parts of the desert. Well-preserved examples can be seen on the edge of the Diseh area, near the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Ancient people depicted warriors and animals, caravans and hunters. One cluster of petroglyphs, known as the Anfashieh inscriptions, is carved into the enormous smooth vertical face of a rock and is a particularly impressive sight.

The safest way to visit the desert is on a half-day trip from the nearby towns of Aqaba and Petra. These organised tours offer a comfortable experience and take you to the sights along well-established routes. Those who are bolder and more determined will discover another side of life in the desert: harsh, unforgiving of mistakes, and offering another chance to test your strength and abilities. Whichever option you choose, the fairy-tale landscapes of Jordan will remain one of the most vivid memories of your trip.