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South Korea occupies the southern half of the Korean Peninsula. It's best known abroad for its decades-long standoff with its northern neighbour, but on the ground the guns fell silent long ago, and in recent years the two sides have been building closer economic ties. Visitor numbers are healthy too. The country is bordered by sea on every side except the north, where the land border runs. The climate is temperate and monsoonal. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, with warm days and clear skies, while summer is hot and rainy and winter is dry with light frosts and only occasional snow.
Customs rules place some limits on bringing money, antiques and other valuables in and out of the country. Anything declared on arrival can be reclaimed on the way out, provided you keep the paperwork issued at the time. The local currency is the won; US dollars are accepted in a few places, but cards from most major payment networks work almost everywhere. If hitchhiking is your style of travel, South Korea probably isn't the place for it — even train and bus tickets are best booked in advance here.
Unsurprisingly, what visitors want most is the exotic side of the country — local culture, inventive cuisine and centuries-old buildings that have survived to this day. Koreans are generous with all of it. Winter brings demand for the country's ski resorts — mountains cover roughly 70% of South Korea's territory — while autumn is the best season for sightseeing and exploring the nature reserves.
Fans of modern architecture and city life will love the capital, Seoul, home to plenty of architectural landmarks, not least its main royal palace. The undisputed museum city, though, is Gyeongju, former capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla, where much of Korea's world-famous cultural heritage is concentrated. If good food and a seaside break are what you're after, look to Busan, South Korea's maritime capital — the country's largest port city, and one with no shortage of architectural landmarks of its own.
Buddhism is the leading faith among the local population, practised by around 40% of believers, and pilgrimages to sacred sites are common. Also well worth a mention is the island resort of Jeju, which locals call the "island of three abundances." It's a favourite with honeymooners, and with good reason — a 2011 public vote named it one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. Souvenirs aside, it's also a great place to pick up affordable consumer electronics, with an enormous selection on offer at the Yongsan market in Seoul. Just remember to factor in customs duty on the way home.
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